Cortegana's castle dominates the skyline from miles around and is particularly dramatic with the sunset behind it. The castle also offers one of the best views of the Sierra and is a good introduction to the town nestling beneath it.

Like the castles at Aroche and Cumbres Mayores, the castillo in Cortegana was built in 1293 under Sancho IV, as part of the defensive line of fortifications called the Banda Gallega, to warn of a Portuguese incursion. This relatively compact castle has been heavily restored and its interior is embellished with suits of armour and heavy, medieval-looking furniture.

The castle, its hilltop and the streets leading up to it are the ideal location for a four-day Medieval festival held at the end of August. Highlights include jousting tournaments and a spectacular re-enactment of the battle between the Moors and Christians, as well as a large atmospheric market, bars, music and singing.

There are two casinos (working men's bars - but you don't have to be male, or employed, to enter) in the town; the best is located in the Plaza de la Constitución. A cavernous Art Deco building, it is beautifully tiled and even has a grand sitting room with a huge fireplace. The other casino is on the small, attractive square Plaza del Divino Salvador, lined with orange trees. The square is dominated by the 16th-century Iglesia del Divino Salvador.

You can't miss the marisquería on the N433 near the Guardia Civil building, a good restaurant to visit for a change from the usual pork dishes on offer in the Sierra. Bar El Nogal on the Almonaster road south of the centre, Avenida de las Minas, has the terrace with the best view in Cortegana, looking out to the castle and the surrounding countryside.