Aracena, the largest town in the Parque Natural Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche, is dominated by a hilltop ruined castle and church. Its population has grown rapidly in recent years, but it has managed to retain a dignified elegance about its streets.

The Portuguese drove the Moors out of Aracena in 1251 before handing over the town to the Castilians in 1267. The Knights Templar controlled the town until 1312 when the Order was dissolved. In the early 20th century Aracena was favoured as a holiday resort by employees of the Río Tinto mining company, who built the houses in Aracenilla, an area of town past the piscina (swimming pool) on the Alájar road.

What to see

The best place to visit first for its splendid panoramic views over the town and surrounding countryside is the Castillo (castle). The castle itself now only consists of ruined defensive walls, but there is also a large church here. You approach the church through an imposing brick belfry and archway at the top of the hill. The Gothic-Mudéjar Iglesia Nuestra Señora de los Dolores was built on the site of a 12th-century Moorish fortress by the Knights Templars in the 14th century. The 16th-century church tower has the same Almohad sebka brickwork decoration as that on the Giralda in Sevilla.

Looking north from the castle you can see the unfinished 16th-century Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Asunción that still lacks a roof. Opposite this church and also in the Plaza Alta is the 15th-century Cabildo Viejo, a beautifully restored former town hall that now houses an information office for the park. There are permanent exhibitions on the park and it has books and maps about the Sierra.

The Plaza Alta was developed as the centre of Aracena around the fifteenth century as Aracena grew in terms of population and regional importance. Nearby is the striking newly renovated Ayuntamiento (town hall), a red-brick building designed by the renowned architect Aníbal González in 1911, who worked on the Great Exhibition in Seville in 1929.

Aracena is famous for its spectacular limestone caves, the Gruta de las Maravillas (the Cave of Marvels), one of the best caves in Spain. These are underneath the castle hill and are similar to those under the Peña de Arias Montano, near Alájar. Twelve caves covering 1,200m, with underground lakes and dramatic limestone formations, are open to visitors. At the entrance to the caves is a helpful tourist office and a small geological museum with minerals from all over the world.

There is a pleasant paseo (square) in the centre of Aracena, overlooked by the handsome Casino Arias Montano, which was designed by Aníbal González. Opposite the paseo is Café-Bar Manzano, a popular tapas stop with an excellent choice of typical serrano dishes including a separate setas (wild mushrooms) menu in autumn. Near the square is the long-established Confitería Rufino, famous for its fine cakes.

Northeast of town is the Embalse de Aracena (Aracena reservoir), a great place for cooling off in summer with some of its shores and picnic areas shaded by gall oaks.